baby went to amsterdam, she put a little money into travelin'.

The remnants of Queensday the morning after

Wednesday 28 April 2010

My friend Claire and I left in the evening for Amsterdam on our respective forms of transportation - a mere one hour flight for her, 15 hour overnight train (without bed) for me. Despite the horribly uncomfortable seats clearly not built for sleeping or sitting for long periods of time, I would still choose to travel by train. There's something about seeing the land change as you pass - about enjoying the green expanses of the German countryside and the endless fields of bright yellow, almost fluorescent flowers, about opening the windows to fresh air - that is irreplacable, no matter how much faster a plane will get you to your destination.


Preferred form of transportation

Thursday 29 April 2010

9:23 AM

Woke up groggily to find that the train has been stalled....for the last 6 hours. Engine broken. Apparently someone commit suicide on the tracks in the middle of the night while everyone was asleep. Definitely did a number on the locomotives. Now everyone is out of their compartments, having conversations with fellow travelers from other countries, the windows are open for some fresh morning air, and someone is strumming languidly on a ukelele. If it weren't for the grim circumstances and the fact that I'm losing a whole precious day of travel and leaving Claire alone in Amsterdam, I'd almost enjoy this.


14:00

After a couple hours back on track, just when we thought we could finally make it to Amsterdam, the train has stalled once again. This time we've all gotten off the train, resting on the platform in the warm afternoon sun and balmy breeze. The weather truly feels like summer right now, wherever we are.

Later that day...

Six hours after I was supposed to arrive in Amsterdam, I finally made it to Centraal Station around 4 in the afternoon, exhausted from a rather sleepless train ride, and starved, having not eaten anything since 6 o'clock the previous evening. I met up with Claire and we rode to Haarlem, where we are staying for the next two nights, to drop off our bags at our hostel. In the evening we explored a bit of Amsterdam, mainly the many eateries so considerately open for late night munchies. Total food consumed tonight: huge plate of Chinese noodles, Belgian waffle, various cakes, and a "Lion" McFlurry (in response to my original order for a KitKat McFlurry, the clerk said 'why have a kat when you can have a lion?' Wise words, for the Lion McFlurry exceeded anything a KitKat McFlurry could have dreamed of being). Note to self for rest of the trip: eat less, spend less money.

Friday 30 April 2010: Queensday


Queensday in....Haarlem!

We woke up today with the intention of eating an early breakfast at the hostel, exploring Haarlem all morning, and being on a train to Amsterdam by noon. Instead, we skipped breakfast, went back to bed and slept til noon.

Well-rested and finally ready for Queensday, we headed into the center of Haarlem, where we were met with huge crowds of youths and families alike all decked out in orange and already drunk (probably from last night's Queensnight celebrations). The train station was mad chaos. Turns out no trains were going to Amsterdam today and crowds of young people were already mobbing the buses to the city. We decided to let the locals celebrate their holiday in Amsterdam and ended up spending Queensday in Haarlem, which I actually appreciated because it was the perfect balance of party celebrations and small town charm. And while Amsterdam was ridden with tourists, Haarlem retained a local atmosphere.

We stopped first for a delightful brunch at a quaint little French cafe on the corner. I had an omelette the size of my face that probably contained a month's supply of cholesterol. It was wholly satisfying, and the coffee was wonderful too. After our cosy rendezvous with France, we returned to the streets of Haarlem to join the Queensday celebration, pausing at a grocery store to arm ourselves with Heinekens. The streets were packed with people (I can only imagine what Amsterdam was like). In addition to being a huge outdoor party, the streets also functioned as a big flea market (I managed to find a lovely ring for just 50 cents) as well as a public children's talent show (still confused about that one). All in all, Queensday was plenty of fun, though the celebrations ended early (after all, they'd been partying since the previous night).


Balancing act

Saturday 1 May 2010

I have so many fingers! (still only 10)
These hands aren't mine. (they were)
A steak would be great in two years. (probably)
They're speaking English! (they were)
They're speaking Danish! (they weren't)
Everyone's speaking Danish! (no one was speaking Danish)
Seth Rogen! (wasn't there)
Did I say that out loud? (yes, I did)
Am I speaking? (yes, I was)
Where's Keanu Reeves? (in The Matrix)
Was that real? (no one knows)

Sunday 2 May 2010

8:17 AM



Beautiful morning. Claire left for the airport already and I have about 2 hours before my long train journey back to Copenhagen. I'm currently sitting by the canal, taking in the beautiful scenery (which somehow has not been the focus on this trip) and enjoying the brisk morning breeze. It's refreshing to explore the city while the streets are mostly empty and everyone is still sleeping off the effects of Queensday weekend. It's a much needed detox: peace, quiet, fresh air, lack of excessive stimuli, getting away from people and being alone in a lovely city - one of my favorite parts of traveling. Once in a while a Heineken can drifts by in the canal or a whiff of urine passes through the air, but for the most part it seems like the party's officially over. Amsterdam, you mad, mad city. You have certainly taken your toll on me.

sxswahhh.

SXSW kicked off today, and its first surprise show came from Nas and Damian Marley at Levi's/Fader Fort (which hosted Kanye's surprise appearance last year). This is one of the acts that excited me most this year, even from 5000 miles away.

NAS & DAMIAN "JR GONG" MARLEY DISTANT RELATIVES preview from nabil elderkin on Vimeo.

While I'm loving Europe and all, I'd give anything to be in Austin this week for some free shows, warm weather, and goddamn breakfast tacos.

the little successes carry you through life.

Today I found my new favorite belt at a thrift shop for 10 kroner (less than $2), got an A on my law paper, uploaded pictures, skipped class, explored Vesterbro, and enjoyed the sunshine. I have yet to study for the test I have tomorrow, but you can't say I didn't have a productive day.

Lesson in blogging efficiency.

Here are some things I've been obsessed with in the past month spent here:

1. Dark chocolate, marzipan, Nutella...

I've tried to curb my consumption, but something tells me I will be dying a slow, delicious death from sugar. It's bad when you've abandoned any concept of Nutella as a spread and simply eat it by the spoonful.

2. Jens Lekman.

Oh Swedish man, why are you not touring in your homeland of Scandinavia? The world makes no sense.

3. Danish hot dogs.

Never before have I had so many condiments in one bite, but it is so worth the multiple heart attacks to come. These put New York hot dog stands to shame.

4. Danish pastries.

If you think they look good, wait til you smell them everywhere on the streets of Copenhagen, especially at 3:00 in the morning - it is incredible.

5. Finding little unique spots in the city.

Ok, I might have tacked this on to make myself feel better for the fact that 3 out of my 5 "obsessions" were food. At the same time though, #5 represents perhaps the truest of my obsessions. In a city as homogeneous as Copenhagen, it is extremely exciting to find local dives or areas with real character and individuality. Which is why Nørrebro and Christiania stand out in my memory as unique places to hang out. The debate on the increasing "problem" of migration in Denmark has centered mostly around how foreigners are perceived as a threat to Danish culture, and while I understood this viewpoint upon first arriving and experiencing the novelty of Danish society, the multi-ethnic neighborhoods and areas not strictly 'Danish' or European have offered the most refreshing view into the city.

Things I've missed in the past month:

1. Television. I'm not a huge TV watcher, but the fact that the Olympics are halfway over and I have yet to watch a single event is literally killing me. The TV in our bloc is broken and/or missing; in addition, Danes simply don't seem to care about the Olympics. Out at a pub, they were playing everything but the Olympics: football, hockey, even an old movie at one point (who goes to a pub to watch a movie?). Also, I simply miss being able to have the TV on in the background every so often. BBC World to keep me just a little more informed when I don't have time to read the news. The Food Network too, although I think the adventures that go down in our kitchen are more than enough for a program of its own. Speaking of which, I made pasta carbonara yesterday! Without pancetta, but Danish bacon as a substitute ain't too shabby.

2. Speaking the native language. Sure, Danes all speak impeccable English, some better than Americans I know, but Danish is very much the national language. Even with the knowledge that you could just initiate a conversation in English, it is very alienating to be unable to understand the conversations around you, the announcements on the train, the nutrition facts on the cereal you buy. However, it's also reinspired my desire to learn languages and stressed the importance of language as a bridge into a culture. I speak Chinese to my parents now whenever they call. I talk to Chinese students I meet doing laundry in my kollegium. I try out the little Danish I've learned on the Danes I live with. I have conversations with students from Spain (though they usually want to improve their English, so it generally becomes Spanglish).

It seems I like a lot more things than I've missed in the past month. I'll take that as a good sign for the coming months.

god mondag på nørrebro.

Mondays are long - class runs from 8:30 in the morning to 6 in the evening, with a scant few hours tossed in as a break. While it sounds torturous, Mondays usually also tend to be the most productive and pass most quickly, usually with the aid of coffee and plenty of work with which to occupy the time.

Today was an especially busy Monday as I had done absolutely no work over the weekend (yet a day trip to Sweden and consumption of far too much beer were clearly a priority). It has been enormously difficult to get anything productive done here, let alone anything for the real world, such as job applications and making plans for the future. Which is why I was so proud when I successfully finished and faxed out my application for an internship at NPR today, just before going to class at the University of Copenhagen. Despite the near impossibility of actually getting it, it was such a sense of achievement to actually finish something tangible and put myself out there. If anything, the fact that it was such a reach freed me more to be myself, since the main concern for me was not actually getting the post but finishing something that was true to myself.

Though I scrambled with my limited time frame between classes, the finished product I faxed out at least felt complete, something I could be satisfied with. Walking to class afterwards was refreshing, revitalizing, even though I was already 15 minutes late (but as it's a 3-hour lecture course, 15 minutes is negligible). It was nice to be back in the city, out in the fresh air and snow, being frustrated at the general absence of pedestrian right-of-way but at the same time not all too worried about the delay.

After class (which was actually quite interesting in covering torture and transitional justice, concepts I had been introduced to in South Africa), an evening of celebratory unwinding was in order. I met up with friends close by in the city where we enjoyed a highly affordable Mediterranean buffet. The American love for all things cheap and all things all-you-can-eat combined with the fact that we hadn't eaten since 11 o'clock led us to shovel our food with no mercy, much to the horror of our cruelly outnumbered European friend.

Following an overindulgent feast (complete with wine and dessert), we trekked to Nørrebro, a district known for its multi-ethnic community in a city of daunting homogeneity. A sketchier part of town, where some of our first welcoming sights included "Satan" graffitied on the walls, but one with definite character and much to offer to locals and visitors alike.

We went to a bar called Cafe Blågårds Apotek, where there's live jazz music and free entry on Mondays. Inside, it was crowded and warm, a haven from the frigid evening; the music was vibrant, atmosphere was cozy, and a good time seemed to be had by all. Hip, friendly bartenders greeted us with refreshing beers and engaging banter; the intimate environment made it feel more like sharing a living room with old and new friends alike than being out on the town.

In total, I spent around 15 hours in the city today, and while I was exhausted upon finally returning home for the first time since 7:30 AM, it was a god mondag.